Last updated on June 21st, 2017 at 11:13 pm
This page is really only a “hodge podge” of my experiences along the way with photos that may be helpful to some when assembly time arrives.
Very likely there will not be any order to this, just uploading photos and chatting about my experience during the build. You can get more info on the build and all parts required to pull this off here.
As the original files for this project are well designed and do quiet well on their own, I just can’t help myself and as usual always mod them further to sort of make them my own. Any of my changes can also be downloaded in the files section of this site under the Haribo 3030 section.
This photo below is after the initial assembly of the frame with most of the printed parts in place. I went with a Red petg filament [Esun] available on Amazon here and printed the parts at 220 / 70 and they all turned out very nice.
As an owner of the Original Prusa i3 MK2 and already perfect printer, It is just a matter of time before the transplant begins.
Like I said, I like to mod things no matter what it may be and for this build the default Mini Rambo case was an open air variety and was just not going to do it for me. I modeled one that is a bit larger than the one that comes with a MK2 and added a lil design creativity into the mix.
Many of the parts I printed as a group on the MK2 however petg can often string or leave boogers behind between moves to other parts. Several of the parts were printed alone on the hot bed to avoid some of these issues.
I had people ask me along the way and hint that I probably should use ABS, or was I worried petg wasn’t strong enough.. From my experience petg is just as strong if not stronger than abs without all the hassles of shrinking and warping during the print. I never really liked abs anyway, always thought it was an outdated material for 3D printing these days, maybe back 4-5 years ago it was alternative to pla, but hey… it’s not 4-5 years ago anymore.
Here is a photo along the way where the bed on the MK2 had a variety of parts being printed for the upgrade.
Also as part of the files available from the original Github repo were a couple of brackets used to mount the MK2’s original PSU. The concept was ok and was intended to eliminate the need to print a new Case for the PSU, but wheres the fun in that. I of course had to modify the original PSU case shipped with the original Prusa and make one that went well with the Haribo and also included a little bit of the original MK2.
I printed the PSU case and matching lid black to give a little contrast to the build as the steppers are black likewise I printed the end caps for all the extrusions black too.
You may notice in the photo above my Original Prusa MK2 has custom made LED lights that I designed early on as a new owner. I also modeled some in the the Haribo build that are built right into the upper z mounts eliminating an extra part. You can see the led’s in place on the original mk2 as well as on the Haribo build.
All that’s remaining to print are the led cases that I found a good deal for on Ebay. The led’s run on 12v and can be powered by a spare 12 rail on the printers psu. Check out this seller on Ebay for the led’s.
I also figured while I had my psu out of the original case I would get some photos to show anyone how I power my led’s from the psu. It’s simple to do and I use a mini toggle switch to power them on ad off as needed. They do a great job lighting the print bed and I’m very happy with their performance. At this point in time they are over a year old and none have burned out and they are still as bright as when they were new.
This time around I thought I would also give the Drylin Igus bushings a try. I ordered 14 in total and although that is more than is needed by twice, I always like having spares. I don’t mind waiting on a print, but I hate waiting on parts…
Back to the PSU case and wiring for led’s. Have a look at these photos. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the top of my PSU, don’t work I didn’t allow all the metal shavings fall into the case and just leave them there… Geeeesh, give me some credit please 😉
After that I ran 24ga silicone wire for the positive and negative leads, wrapped in Nylon braided sleeve and passed them thru the case and connected the ends to the positive and negative spare ports on the PSU.
Take your time when drilling your hole in the top of the case. Just look things over real good and be sure where your drilling into. I made accommodation for the hole pass thru in my psu case lid too so if you drill a hole, drill in the center of the psu metal about 1/4 inch from the edge like shown in the photo.
I now more or less have the entire printer assembled and printing. Still need to do some cable management for the wiring coming from the extruder assembly to the Mini Rambo case. I’ve had to slow down a bit now that I’m back up and printing, needed to get caught up on printed parts for customers. One thing I have noticed with the 3030 extrusions is the ability for
the open top channels of the extrusions to collect junk and debris. I’ve now started to print channel covers to solve the issue. The all have to be sized independently so the process takes some time. You can download the Haribo 3030 Channel Covers here.
I also have been working on revising a Filament spool holder for the 3030 frame. This is one from a previous design where I added the proper mount types so that it could easily be secured to the frame. This filament holder is fully printable. I recommend printing the support screws that can not be seen in the photo to be printed with 100% infill. The remaining parts can be printed with 20-30% infill. This filament holder is also available in the files section of the site here.
Have had the chance today to model a switch housing to house my toggle switch that I use to turn on and off my LED’s once they are installed. I used a tiny toggle switch available here for this operation. You should be able to work out what’s what from the photos below.
Finally finished today, all the wiring of the led lights are complete. I’ve tucked them away with red Nylon braiding. It Prints very well, very quiet and can print much faster if the need arises. Have all the wires tucked way in the Mini Rambo case and added some channel covers on the top horizontal surfaces to keep debris out.
This was a fun project and well worth the time, effort and the extra cost. If you’re comfortable with tinkering, working without instructions and love to make thing better and your own, I highly recommend this upgrade to an already great Prusa i3 MK2.
What color would be your favorite?